New Zealand Afghan Hounds
Rearing Afghan Hound Puppies
by Dale Powell
When it come to rearing puppies there is a great deal of common ground regardless of breed as all babies have the same needs. This is, however a synopsis of my own procedures which I have developed over the past 20 or more years experience, firstly with poodles then with Afghan Hounds. I have also assisted with many other breeds over this time. Much experience has been learned in the "school of trial and error" and many a tale could be told ... but this is an account of methods that I not only believe in, but also know to work successfully for sound and healthy puppies
At birth: Our litters are all born inside the house where we sleep with them for at least 2-4 weeks. This is for several reasons"
A) W can ensure that all of the puppies are free of the dam's coat and do not get tangled in it (which can easily happen with Afghans), the more a puppy twists to get free, the more likely he is going to strangle himself.
B) We can check that all of the puppies are able to get their fair share of the milk supply and are not missing out. Supervision over this immediate postpartum period is critical to prevent other possible disaster, egg the bitch can easily get carried away with uterine contractions and continue to scratch and dig, possibly hurting a pup or even sitting on one. It is easier, too, to watch for Fading Puppy Syndrome when they are with you in the house. I have managed to save several such puppies with a mixture of 1 egg white, 1/2 cup milk, 1 tablespoon glucose, 1 teaspoon brandy (essential).
Feeding: I personally tube-feed but under no circumstances should this be undertaken by anyone not experienced in this method as irreparable damage can be done to a puppy's delicate membranes by a tube incorrectly administered. A feeding bottle is a quite adequate substitute.
Resuscitation: Over the years I have been privileged to assist at many matings and whelpings and from time to time have been faced with the problem of a dying puppy. I have successfully used mouth-to-mouth resuscitation on dying puppies, so don't be afraid to try when there seems to be no other hope.
We are aware that some Afghan breeders advocate keeping the dam away from the puppies except for feeding times, to protect her coat. We personally don't believe in this as we have found it to be traumatic for the bitch and for the puppies who need their mother's presence for reassurance and comfort in the early days and for socializing in the first few weeks. The Dam, to, needs to be with her babies as much as she desires to prevent any psychological trauma which can affect the quantity and quality of her milk - and consequently impair the puppies development.
Here is our programme for the first weeks of life:
Birth to 2 Weeks
Puppies mainly rely on the dam except in cases where complementary feeding is necessary (tube feeding for the experienced, otherwise by bottle). Supplementary feeding is usually necessary when there are more than 5 puppies in the litter.
Afghan puppies have distinct personalities right from the start and it is great fun to watch them develop over the ensuing weeks and to compare them.
Worming
Before whelping the dam should, of course, have been regularly wormed and inoculated to inhibit parasite growth in the babies and to pass on immunity to them at birth. The first worming for puppies themselves should be at 2 weeks.
Heating
It is essential in these critical early days to make sure that the whelping box is clean and dry and free from draughts. We have a heat lamp every time, even in summer, because despite the daytime heat, at night there is a marked drop and temperatures need to remain constant if puppies are to thrive. In winter we use a gas heater for additional heating
3-4 Weeks
We slowly begin to reduce the temperature of the whelping room to normal unless it is very cold. We also begin to introduce the puppies to milk other than the dam's I begin by teaching them to lap once a day from a saucer, gradually increasing to twice a day, and slowly adding Nutri-Pet.
When the eyes open and hearing develops, the puppies exhibit more of their personalities and watching them is a great thrill (and a great time waster!). At 4 weeks we usually are able to transfer them to outside kennels.
5-8 Weeks
DIET: By the fifth week they are introduced to mince, chicken etc and we bring their meals up to two per day, morning and night. Lunch and supper are Milk meals i.e. Nutri-pet, eggs, weetabix. We always leave milk and water available at all times. By now biscuits are being popular as well. We raise all our puppies (and our adults too) to accept and enjoy a range of vegetables in their diet - makes for good healthy coats. At this stage the puppies are still being topped up by their mother's milk. By now they are real time-wasters! We find ourselves spending many hours playing with and observing these delightful and demanding babies. Already at this tender age they are trying you out - their intelligence is amazing and it is lovely to watch their antics.
9-12 Weeks
By now the youngsters are developing very quickly therefore the Calcium additive which was introduced with solids at approximately 3-4 weeks is absolutely essential (unless you want dogs with bone problems in later life). This is the age of initial "accident-prone-ness" and the runs must be cleared daily of any debris.
TOYS: Toys can help to develop initiative and co-ordination as well as alleviate boredom. As with all children's toys, those you give puppies should be checked for safety. Make sure there are no bits that can splinter, break, get swallowed and cause blockages (like squeakers from rubber animals and balls) - it is just common sense really.
HOUSE TRAINING: This is not a problem. We have found always that when playing inside, even very young Afghan puppies can be taught easily to go outside for their toilet needs. It is astounding how quickly puppies will catch on to a new lesson when they are shown and taught very gently.
BATHING: One important lesson for Afghans is THE BATH! Although they are always dubious at first, they soon accept it. Then, of course, there are the HAIR DRYERS! It is easiest at first to start off with a puppy in your lap and let the air stream from the dryer be directed on to the pup. With plenty of love and encouragement you will soon find you can progress to the table where he will learn to stand through the whole procedure of drying and grooming.
INNOCULATION TIME: Begins at 8 weeks. Some Veterinary clinics, beginning at 6 weeks and there are various vaccines - if in doubt discuss it with your vet in plenty of time.
LEAVING HOME: At 12 weeks or thereabouts, the pups usually face the big upheaval of going to a new home - leaving littermates behind. Al the new surroundings and people can be very confusing and it is important that the new owner has a written diet sheet so that the pup does not have to face dietary changes. Most puppies, especially Afghan Hounds, do enjoy human company and I personally request that the new owner will spend a few days at home to settle pup into his new environment. Plenty of toys and chewy bones that will help to keep puppy amused - and they do get bored so easily!
We have found that if there is another dog in the household, provided that it is "kind" and gentle, it can really ease the trauma of this transition period in pup's life.
3-6 Months
Worming: This should have been carried out in accordance with the directions on the Canex (or Cancare) packet.
Calcium Supplement: This should be continued until puppy is at least 9 - 12 months old.
Feeding: Four times a day continues until pup will probably wean himself off. Lunch seems to go first, usually at about 4-5 months.
Lead Training: This should begin in earnest at about 3 months. This is when you find out how much stamina your pup has! (You too?) In one litter you can find that some will take to the lead easily but others will fight you all the way! We like a pup to have a bit of "get-up-and-go" as long as he is happy. In the ring a pup that is moving in leaps and bounds and obviously happy will catch the eye for exhibiting its spirit, and in time will calm down to become an orderly adult.
Socializing: It is important to socialize puppies from a very early age and to get people to handle them. Some pups, of course are naturally social. We ourselves have been very lucky in that we have had no problems with antisocial puppies.
Education: - corrective training. At 3 months puppies are only too happy to please you and obey, but as they get older there are those Afghans who display a definite mind of their own. Please remember that a voice command is far more effective for training and correcting Afghans than any physical action. The tone of voice and the consistency of command words coupled with praise for lessons learned soon brings positive results. On the other hand, physical rebukes will result only in a rebellious Afghan who distrusts you and will certainly try to get his own back at some time. With Afghans and some other hounds like Salukis and the Spitz breeds, building mutual trust is very important for successful co-existence. Once an Afghan loses his trust in you it is virtually gone for ever. Whereas a Rottweiler, Doberman or German Shepherd may well accept physical correction without rancour, the Afghan certainly will not - and will try to get even! As it is there are some Afghans that will take to heart even a voice correction will later retaliate - by demolishing your favourite plant or depositing your underwear in the compost heap!
A puppy can be a little darling until he hits about 7-8 months when lo and behold we have a brat going through a real adolescent stage just same as any human boy will do. Here is the "challenge" for the owner! If may be a battle of wills for a while but the Afghan Hound and the Owner do become very close (believe it or not). This adolescent period can be a pain, for the owner does have to be patient, but once through it the Afghan Hound becomes a perfect Gentleman and friend. I hasten to say that not all Afghans do go through this stage, but it is wise to be prepared for it.
Monkey whiskers: On some Afghan Hounds these grow abundantly and the puppies look real characters with all their "face fluff" but these gradually fall out with the help of a little finger plucking at approximately 8-12 months. (I have covered this more extremely in the article on Care and Preparation.)
General Points
You will need fences, room for afghan to run and exercise safely - these are essential. Afghans have great springing ability (though fortunately not all of them use it) and can clear fences very easily so a six-foot fence is a minimum. Afghans are hounds, on the alert for game that moves, so a car, bird, or even just the instinct to go hunting, can tempt them to go out. Afghans must therefore be enclosed securely but never tied. I cannot stress this too strongly. Although these beautiful dogs are intelligent and "canny" they do not have any road sense so we must be aware of our responsibility to them in this respect. Of course there are many Afghans that have earned the nickname of 'Lounge Lizards" who are happy, just to be with you, will stay around and not run off and will even come when called: but forewarned is forearmed and these sorts of provisions will help your relationship with your friend to survive the years without anxiety.
Compatibility: Afghan Hounds are slow maturing than some other hound breeds, for example, Dachshunds, Beagles and Whippets, who, at 6 months look like adults, whereas our dear challenging Affie is still going through Puppyhood Puberty, Adolescence to Adulthood, especially between 5 - 12 months. So anyone who enjoys a challenge; who likes being on their toes; who isn't fazed by wondering just what their best mate is dreaming of getting into next ... then the Afghan Hound is right for you!
Dale Powell, Juwain, NZ, 1991
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